Annapurna I (8 091m) @Sunrise - 10th Highest Mountain in the World, a photo by GlobeTrotter 2000 on Flickr.
Annapurna I (8 091m) - located in Nepal - is the most dangerous 8000-meter peak with an expedition fatality rate of 40%. In particular, the ascent via the south face is considered the most difficult of all climbs.
Annapurna I was the first 8,000-meter peak climbed and the first climbed without supplemental oxygen.
Maurice Herzon and Louis Lachenal, the first to summit Annapurna I in 1950, were part of a French team that included other great climbers including Gaston Rébuffat and Lionel Terray. Herzog and Lachenal both suffered severe frostbite on their feet and Herzog on his hands after losing his gloves. Gangrene set in afterward, forcing the expedition doctor to amputate fingers and toes in the field without anesthetic.
Maurice Herzog wrote the book Annapurna about the 1950 expedition, which has sold over 11 million copies, making it the best-selling climbing book of all time.